The modern women’s vyshyvanka grows more popular every year. And no wonder, because it is a very beautiful, refined, distinctive and original garment that deserves attention. Embroidery is used in their collections by Ukrainian and world designers alike, which speaks of how widely this art is recognised.

In this article we will try to look at what kinds of women’s vyshyvankas there are, which fabrics are most often used to sew modern Ukrainian vyshyvankas, which colours, patterns, threads and embroidery techniques are used — and a little history too…

Kinds of modern women’s vyshyvankas.

Today, on the shelves of various shops, stores, ateliers and salons you can see a wide choice of women’s vyshyvankas at very different prices. And here the question arises — what is the difference after all? That is what follows…

First of all, women’s vyshyvankas are most often embroidered on the cloth itself, though ones with sewn-on inserts do occur. Those with inserts are usually cheaper than the rest. Then again, there is a difference in the embroidery itself — whether it is handwork or machine embroidery. Handwork is traditionally very painstaking and demands time and patience. That is why it is not valued cheaply. For the most part a handmade women’s embroidered shirt looks brighter, richer in colour and more sumptuous than its machine-made counterparts; yet progress does not stand still, and very often it is extremely hard for an ordinary buyer to tell machine embroidery from hand embroidery.

Types of cut of women’s embroidered shirts.

Women’s embroidered shirts differ by type of cut:

1. tunic-like;
2. shirts with ustavky (shoulder inserts) – the most widespread kind;
3. shirts with a yoke (or on a yoke);
4. shirts with a cut-in-one sleeve.

Shirts are also set apart by the length of the cut or whole panels of the body:

• full-length (made in one piece);

• with a lower panel joined at the waist.

One can also single out various subgroups, which show themselves in:

• the ways the shoulder inserts and sleeves are joined to the body;
• the shape and size of the inserts, sleeves and gussets;
• the placing of the neck opening;
• the way it fastens;
• the shape of the collar;
• the cut of the sleeves themselves.

So which kind of cut should you choose after all? To that question there is only one answer – the one you like. :) It is worth remembering that a vyshyvanka is worn loose; it should not weigh the body down. A young, slender girl will look lovely in a vyshyvanka of blouse cut, while a fuller figure is well suited by loose classic lines.

The palette and the ornament of a women’s vyshyvanka.

Women’s vyshyvankas differ in a great many colours and ornaments. Historically each region had a set of its own, and often the palette changed even within a single region. Today, in an age when society is globalised, territorial differences have all but been erased. And far less importance is attached to the symbolism of the colours and patterns used on a vyshyvanka than there once was.

Once the knowledge of how to ornament a vyshyvanka properly was passed from mother to daughter. Particular patterns belonged on the shoulder inserts, the collars, the lower panel. Much of that knowledge has now been lost, and guesswork, invention and distortion have taken its place. And yet we do know something. Waves of various kinds, zigzags, diagonal rows, squares, narrow stripes, straight crosses, flowers and floral rosettes are traditionally held to be women’s patterns. Unlike the men’s shirt, where the collar and the chest were ornamented, a women’s vyshyvanka is embroidered on the sleeves, the hem, the neck opening and the collar, and more rarely on the chest. A purely women’s technique is satin stitch. Sometimes modern vyshyvankas also use beadwork and openwork lace. All in all, of the hundred or so different embroidery techniques our ancestors knew, the most widespread now are cross stitch, satin stitch and openwork.

Women of the older generation mostly choose vyshyvankas in less vivid colours, while younger women are fond of clothing in bright colours and shades. But what advice or convention can there be if you like the colour of the shirt and of the embroidery? Quite right, none. Then again, the choice of palette and pattern also depends on the temperament of the wearer. Phlegmatic ladies prefer softer, more restrained tones. Sanguine young women are fond of bright, more striking shades.

The types of fabric women’s vyshyvankas are sewn from.

Traditional vyshyvankas were usually sewn from hemp or linen cloth. Today, though, the variety of fabrics lets you choose a vyshyvanka made of exactly the material you like. You will come across shirts of hemp, natural linen, cotton fabrics, silk, synthetic fabrics and blends of natural and synthetic materials.

The price of such pieces differs too. Items made entirely of natural materials are mostly dearer than items made of synthetic fibres, and they call for gentler treatment and special care. Natural fabrics have antifungal, anti-allergenic and antiseptic properties. They are more familiar and pleasanter against the body, they let air through and absorb moisture well, so your skin can breathe. Synthetic fabrics are less demanding to care for, but they are not as pleasant against the body either. In price, man-made fabrics are the cheapest. And the happy medium is a blend of man-made and natural materials. Such fabrics combine beautifully the hygienic, environmentally friendly qualities of natural cloth with the practicality of synthetics.

Choosing the size of a vyshyvanka.

We would also like to mention such an important criterion of choice as size. The right size of an embroidered shirt is the key to a wonderful mood and to the wearer looking like no one else. Below is a table of vyshyvanka sizes to help you find your bearings when choosing a shirt. If you are buying a women’s vyshyvanka in our store, the description of every product contains a table of the available sizes and their prices. You can quickly choose and buy the women’s embroidered shirt you like at our online store «Vyshyvanochka.ua».

This article has raised the main questions that come up when choosing a women’s embroidered shirt: types of cut, materials, colours and patterns. But for all the variety of women’s vyshyvankas on the market today, the main criterion remains whether you like the vyshyvanka and how comfortable and at ease you feel in it. We also hope that the women’s vyshyvankas you buy in our store will bring you nothing but pleasant, positive feelings, and we will always do our best not to disappoint you.

We wish you happy shopping!